Tiny Village 2013 is a set of 8 miniature paper buildings. The tallest building in this set is 1-1/8 inches high. The buildings were designed to use for scenes in dollhouses or inside of ornaments, eggs, domes, as glitter houses, putz, or simply as decorations in your home wherever you want to place a charming little accent. They are not just for Christmas!
There are three color choices, white, black and gingerbread brown. There is also a smaller micro size version of this kit. These assembly directions are also used for the micro sized kits. However note that some of the details in the micro scaled kits have been simplified in order to make that reduction in size possible to cut. Building #12 does not have a bay window. There are no divided lights on windows. Building #15 does not have an overlay, fold down, top detail on the towers and no extra trim over the entry passage.
The White Tiny kits sold prior to September 2015 (the larger size, not the white micro kits) have a coated paper with a soft pearl finish that faces the outside of the building.
The buildings in the kit Tiny Village 2013 begin with number 8 and end with number 15.
Tiny Village 2012 contains the buildings 1 thru 7. In this set of instructions you will see notes in italic lettering that refers to a few differences between the regular size kit and the micro sized kit.
Please refer to the posting on this blog http://glitterhouses.blogspot.com/2014/03/tips-for-folding-tiny-pieces.html for extra advice on making and handling the folds on some of the very small pieces. As all the fold lines have been perforated they are easy to bend but the micro size kits do best with a bit of assistance from tweezers and such.
You may need to use a sharp knife to remove chads from some of the window openings but don't remove the hinged doors.
Before you begin assembling a building glance all the way through the instructions so you familiarize yourself with what happens to all the pieces. If you wish to decorate a building with gel pens or felt tip markers it is easier while the pieces are flat. However glitter should be done after assembly
Tools needed are as follows. A sharp pointed craft knife, a #11 blade is good, I use the knife for removing any hanging chads from windows and for helping to remove excess glue before it dries. It is also good for gently pushing the walls into position. You can use a toothpick or fine point glue applicator bottle for adding just the right amount of glue. Toothpicks can also reach into deep spaces to help you adjust the edges of pieces during the glue steps. Bamboo skewers are also a great tool for reaching inside of the buildings to encourage the walls into proper position. Tweezers with slanted, straight across tips, often called eyebrow tweezers, will help you hold onto the very small parts and help with making bends on them. Your finger are the only clamps you will need. Just use them to gently press the parts together until the glue grabs. When gluing paper a small amount of glue is best as you don't want the parts to get soggy. Clear drying, thick, PVA glues work well but choose one that dries water resistant if you wish to decorate the building with paint or glitter. My favorite glue is Crafters Pick "The Ultimate". See the sidebar of this blog for sources on materials such as glue, glitter and tools such as the fine point glue applicator bottle with a .7mm metal tip. I love these applicator bottles, they make the assembly go super fast! A .7mm stainless steel sewing pin makes a great stopper for the metal tip. It is important to only use stainless steel pins as regular pins will rust.
If you wish to have your doors partly open you should place them in that position before you begin assembling the buildings.
Note that the micro sized version of this building does not have divided lights.
The outline of the base area on all buildings is your guide to bending the walls in the correct direction.
In all buildings in this kit the walls always rest on top of the base surface.
After the glue is dried you can burnish smooth the perforations along bend lines using the back of your finger nails or other very smooth object.
Fold and install the small dormer roof gluing as indicated by red lines on the cut edges of the cardstock.
It is a good idea to put your parts into a bowl as soon as the package is opened. That way your sleeve or hand won't sweep a tiny roof or chimney onto the floor.
Use a toothpick to nudge walls into place using it to reach inside the building if needed.
Stand the building on a table while installing the overlay so that the bottom of the building and overlay are flush with each other. Your fingers will help align the side edges.
The sides of the dormer fold in after the roof is on.
Then apply glue to the cut edges as shown in step two and slip the chimney into the notch in the roof. The tip of a #11 knife can be slid between the chimney side and the notch to help ease the chimney in position, it is a tight fit.
Note that the micro version of this building does not have bottom pieces on the fireplaces.
The top edge of the chimney and the top edge of the side wall overlays will be even. See final photo below for how that looks.
All done and congratulations!
This building has a second story overhang that is historically called a "jetty".
The walls will sit on top of the base.
The front wall with the window will be glued on top of the cut edge of the side wall with the corner being flush.
If you look at the building from the side the back of the chimney and the back wall of the building line up with each other on the same plane.
Note that the micro sized version does not have identical windows to the full size version.
The bay walls sit on top of the base.
The notch in the roof for the chimney will be flush to the side of the wall the chimeny is installed on. See photo of the completed building for how the chimney fits against the wall and roof.
Towards the bottom of the lower side edges of the bay roof they will slip inside the edges of the notch in the roof. But the upper part or the bay roof sits on top of the main roof. Do a dry fit to see this feature before you apply the glue.
Then glue is applied to the side edges of the bay roof and to the top of the bay walls.
Glue the edge of the chimney sides and let dry. Then place glue on the back of the chimney and on the base of the house where it rest to finish installing it.
Note that the micro sized version of this building does not have a bay window with roof. Also it does not have divided light windows.
The wall on the right will glue over the cut edge of the wall wrapping around from the left for a flush finish at the corner. As always the walls rest on top of the base.
There is a tiny tab at the top of those side walls, it will slip just inside of the notch at the top of the opening cut into the main building. Check to make sure the bay sides look parallel to the sides of the building before the glue sets and that the lower edges of the bay are flush to the base.
Rotate your building and look at the roof from below to be sure it is installed evenly and pushed down against the top of the bay wall.
Notch for chimney faces the one story wing.
Be sure to check the roofs for level while the glue is still wet.
Be sure to check your vertical alignment of the chimney before the glue dries so you can reposition if needed.
Note that the micro sized version of this building does not have divided light windows. It has a single door instead of a double door.
Please look through all the steps before you begin the project.
Always look ahead at the photo for the next step before you begin applying glue so you can see what you are trying to achieve. That will help prevent errors in the assembly process.
Be sure you look at the next photo below this one to see where you are going with this step.
There is a perforated flap at the end of that upper wall section that does not get glued in place at this stage. that section is there to support the front wall that will be folding up later on.
There are two perforated tab sections at the sides that do not get glued at this time. However they are used at this time for squaring up the walls of your bend that forms the floor of this jettied bay. Look ahead at the next photo to see one of them folded in as a positioning jig for squaring up the base of the bay into a 90 degree bend.
See next step for clamping them in place using tweezers.
Back edge of attic floor will touch the back of the main structure wall.
See photo below before you start applying glue. It is important to adjust the front walls of the buildings bays. The bays can be flexed with your fingers into alignment to the attic floor. You can do it as a dry fit before gluing but you will also need to do a final adjustment. If not perfect remember old buildings like these get lopsided over time.
Lots of steps but well worth it!
A fascinating tiny building with a lot of detail and depth of interest.
Note that the micro sized version of this kit does not have the top overlay of detail on the towers or the overlay just above the tunnel.The center window has two sections instead of three.
Remember that there is no entry trim is on the micro sized kit for this building.
See photo below for positioning the first stage of glueing the tunnel liner. The tunnel edges will sit on top of the walls and the base.
The sides of the tunnel and the base are flush along those surfaces. The tunnel is taller that the top of the opening in the walls of the building.
Next apply glue to the cut edge of the front of the tunnel and old the front wall of the center section of the building up against it. Be sure to align the edges flush.
Do one tower through completion of steps then go back and do the second tower.
Apply glue as shown in the photo. Be sparing with the glue and remove any excess left of the surface quickly by using as a scraper the side of your #11 knife blade tip.
Now apply glue on the upper edges of the tower walls where they complete the hexagon. This is a butt join, no overlap of edges. Don't get glue on the edges of that upper trim, they need to be free to bend down.
Fold down and hold with tweezers until the glue grabs. Do one section at a time.
A little dab of glue is plenty. Remove any excess glue from the exterior walls with the tip of your knife.
The top of the piece will butt against the bottom of the upper projection.
I hope you had a great time!