Saving the instructions to your computer

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Direct links to the instructions for the various kits are listed on the right hand side of the page.

Thursday, February 24, 2011

Fir Cottage Assembly Instructions

This posting contains the instructions for assembling the kit "Fir Cottage" I recommend you look through all of the instructions before starting the assembly. Then go back and follow them step by step.

Photos can be enlarged by clicking on them.

This is a precision cut kit. There is no need for scoring the bend lines as they are perforated.  Only bend parts when instructed to do so. Never play around with bending the parts on the kit to see how it is going to look as they are somewhat fragile.

Be stingy with the glue, excess glue on the project will make a mess of it. This kit is made with coated paper,  a slightly damp paper towel will remove excess glue spots if you get to it right away. Keep your fingers free of glue at all times, use tweezers.

Please refer to the posting on this blog for extra advice on making and handling the folds on some of the very small pieces. As all the fold lines have been perforated they are easy to bend but very small pieces do best with a bit of assistance from tweezers and such.

Pay attention to the photos and the location of the parts as the kit only goes together one way, the right way!
The Tools you will need are a micro tipped applicator for the glue. A sharp craft knife for cutting the parts out of the carrier sheet and a pair of tweezers and scissors. Also have on hand a slightly damp paper towel to remove any excess glue and for keeping your fingers clean of glue.


 Your kit should contain the parts as shown in this photo. Some kits will have other color choices but the shapes are the same.

You will use the craft knife to remove the small "sprues"  that hold  the piece into the carrier sheets.  To get a good flush trim hold the beveled cutting edge of the knife so that it is parallel to the paper's edge. We usually hold knives with the main part of the blade parallel to the cut but it won't trim the edges flush if you hold your knife in that position.


 It is important that for correct assembly windows are applied to the walls on the side as shown in this photo.  Do not remove the walls from the carrier sheet until all the windows  and the door have been glued in position.

The door is the smallest part on the sheet with the main roof and the dormer roof.

Most glues will not adhere to the acetate windows. Use Crafter's Pick "The Ultimate" or rubber fortified super glue that is made for plastic or cellophane tape.

Trim the windows to the outside black line. The side of the window with raised printed lines should face to the outside of the cottage.

Put the glue on the walls, not on the windows. Work on one window at a time as the glue dries very quickly. Always use tweezers to hold the windows. You must work quickly as you will only have a very short time in which you can adjust the position of the window. Check the window position by looking at the other side of the sheet and reposition if needed by using tweezers to push against the edge of the plastic.


Make a 90 degree bend in the "wall splice" and glue one side of the bend to the end of the first floor wall sections. The wall splice is located on the same side of the wall where you glued the windows and door.

Make sure the splice is flush to the edge of the wall. This is easy to do if you place the wall edge against the table top while installing the splice.


Bend the wall sections to form a rectangle. Glue the other end of the wall sections to the wall splice creating a flush butt join, not an overlap.

Bend the chimney sections to form a closed shape and put glue on the small tab to secure in place.

Do not glue the top of the chimney down at this time.


Slide the second story onto the first story, the chimney will go through the opening and the tabs will fit up into the slots. Place adhesive under the tabs and bend them down to secure.


Fold angled gable supports. Fit the bottom edge into the slot. Place a bead of glue at that intersection to secure in position. Do this to all four of the supports.


Fold the gable walls up against the supports. Place a small bead of glue along the edges where the parts touch and along the bend line. Do not get glue on the upper edges of the gable, if that happens wipe it off. Hold in position with a little pressure until the glue sticks.


Position the cottage as shown and run a small bead of glue inside the structure along the join between the upper and lower stories.  Also do this along the bends of the first story wall sections. This will make your project very sturdy.


Fold the dormer walls and insert the tabs into the roof. Be sure that the position of the trapezoid shaped opening in the roof is in the correct relationship to the dormer. It must look like this photo so that it will fit down over the chimney. Double check to make sure you get this correct, you don't want to ruin your kit.

Put glue under the two tabs and fold them down as show in the photo. The tab at the lower edge of the roof does not get folded or glued.


Fold the dormer's timber trim piece and glue into position. The glue should be put onto the timber, not on the dormer walls.

Secure the timber trim to the wall by using pressure from the side or tips of the tweezers. You will need to do this same pressure securing step for all timbers on the structure.


Place a bead of glue on the top edge of the dormer walls. Holding the dormer roof as shown center it side to side on the dormer. Then rotate it down onto the top of the dormer walls in an action similar to closing a hinged door. Make sure the back edge of the dormer roof is flush against the main roof.


Make sure the tops of the gable wall are straight, sometimes they curve inwards. You can finger bend them back into position if needed.

Fold the roof along the center line. Place a bead of glue along the upper edge of the gable wall and along the outside edge of the second story. Put a larger amount of glue on the gable supports.

Place the roof on the cottage sliding it down over the chimney. Push it into position against the structure. Look to see if there is excess glue under the gable, if so quickly wipe it away with a damp cloth. Hold the roof in position against the walls for a few minutes until the glue adheres.


Put glue onto the gable timber trim piece. Use tweezers to pick it up and install it. The roof will help you accurately locate this piece. First butt the top edge of the trim into place then lower the trim onto the wall. Secure the timbers to the wall.

Do this on both ends of the cottage.


The timber trims on the narrow front and back ends of the cottage must be put in place before the trims pieces on the longer sides are installed.

Before you put any glue on the timber trim piece double check to be sure you are putting the glue on the side that will go against the cottage wall. Do a dry fit check first!

Once again you will use the top edge of the timber to position the timber trim. As you lower the trim into position check to make sure the window edges are aligned side to side. Secure the timbers to the wall.


Follow the instructions from the last step to install the timber trims on the front of the cottage.


Follow the steps above to secure the timber trims on the long side wall. Note that the timber trims on the two narrow sides will overlap this trim at the corners. Make sure the timbers are secured against the walls.


Follow the same steps to install the timber trim on this side.


Place a bead of glue along the top edge of the chimney and secure the top in position. Quickly wipe any excess glue off the surface.

Place a light bead of glue around one end of the chimney pot piece. Push it down into the hole adjusting the height to please yourself. Make sure it stands up straight.


If you choose to install your house on the base that came  in the kit you can do so at this time.

Run a bead of glue against the lower edge and place the house on the base. The back edge and the right side will be offset from the edge about 3/16".  That will allow room for the trees on the right side of the base.

This kit can be glittered. I recommend applying the glitter before the trees are secured to the base. The trees should be glittered before they are installed.

I will do a posting on how to glitter your kits in the near future.

I hope you have a lot of fun putting your Fir Cottage together. I had a lot of fun making it for you.

Thanks for being my good customer, I appreciate your business.
Karin Corbin